A day of heavy mist, which did not clear at all. No sky, no sun. But the place is still compelling. Naked vineyards climb up the hillsides from the road, gradually disappearing into the damp grey cloud. Lights take on a particular luminescence. It would be good to record that drivers slow down in these conditions, but alas.
Chablis was keen to go tasting - faire les degustations – at several Alsatian wine houses that she has heard much of. As it was 11.30 before we got moving, we went first to Colmar for a wander around and a bit of lunch. Colmar is being dressed for Christmas. It must be that as soon as daylight saving ends (which was last weekend), and the immediate effect is of the nights closing in so much earlier, (5.15 at the moment) they start setting up Christmas lights and decorations to light up the streets and lift the spirits again. Council workers are up in cherry pickers suspending lighting throughout the centre-ville. Small pine trees in tubs along the street have been sprayed with snow-look-alike. Along the pavements, between the shops, larger trees have been set up, hard against the walls, cut in half vertically so that they have a flat surface to the wall. They are lit with cascades of fairy-lights. When, as I am assured is always the case in Alsace, the whole effect is enhanced by real snow, it will be wondrous.
The diversion to Colmar was to allow for the fact that everything closes between 12 and 2 for lunch. Once past 2pm, we set off to do the list of wineries that Chablis had drawn up. This was something of an eye-opener for fly. There is a procedure for tasting – you start with the brut cremant (dry bubbly) and then progress through the dry stills, the demi-sec, (off-dry) into the less-dry-getting- sweet to sweet – les vintages tardives (the late pickings). But so many variants along the way, and so many bouquets etc etc. Chablis could tell if a wine had been matured in oak barrels or stainless steel vats. Amazing. Another thing is the art of using the spittoon in a reasonably genteel manner. Chablis has mastered it of course. Of fly, less said the better. However, it is appropriate to comment on the beautiful Alsatian pottery spittoons. I would love to bring one back as a vase, but too heavy for travelling.
At one winery, the tasting was conducted by a lovely young woman who had spent half a year in Brisbane learning English. She could not have been more helpful or interesting. At the next, which is one of the big names, and which advertised that it was open for tasting on its web-site, we were advised by a Harradine in the office that the wine-master was not in, and she could give us an appointment in two weeks time. She really was unpleasant. Interesting. Later, in Riquewihr, another woman was wonderful, talking not only about the characteristics of the wines, but also which foods they best complemented. This with the fish course, this with foie gras, this is especially good with asparagus etc. She was a delight. Of course, part of the etiquette of tasting is that one buys some wine, so between us we ended up with quite a stock. Chablis will take some home next week, I am stocking up for Christmas.
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